Truly Juan in a Million

By Kari Anna Reitan
Daily Texan Staff

Juan Meza has mastered the handshake: firm but not overpowering, sincere yet not prolonged to the point of awkwardness. He makes a point to shake hands with every person who walks through the doors of his restaurant Juan in a Million. He floats around the room, exchanging hearty handshakes with male patrons and gently shaking the hand of each woman.

“I am sincere about it,” he says. “They could have gone anywhere. I really appreciate that they chose to come here.”

Thriving under the tried-and-true business philosophy that the customer always comes first, Juan in a Million has been in operation for almost 25 years.

In the ‘70s, Juan and his wife, Myrna, were recruited from their hometown of Laredo to teach in Austin ISD’s bilingual program.

The young couple struggled to survive on their meager teachers’ paychecks.

“I was starving to death,” Juan says.

To make ends meet, Juan began working nights at a local Mexican restaurant. The fast-paced, social nature of the business was instantly attractive to Juan.

“I told myself, I can do this,” he says. When a space came up for sale on East Cesar Chavez, the couple decided to take a chance and bought it. They named their endeavor “Juan in a Million.” To develop their own menu, Juan and Myrna explored the Mexican restaurants around town, paying particular attention to the restaurants with the most cars in their parking lots. From their investigations, the pair created a menu boasting extensive breakfast taco combinations along with all of the Mexican food staples.

The granddaddy of Juan’s breakfast tacos, the “Don Juan,” has become the most popular item on the menu. A blend of tender potatoes, scrambled eggs and crispy bacon pieces heaped onto a flour tortilla and topped off with melted cheddar cheese, the “Don Juan” is massive. The mountain of mushy goodness cannot be enclosed within the one tortilla provided; an extra tortilla is commonly ordered by those who wish to eat the “Don Juan” in true taco fashion without the aid of a fork. Photos of competitors in the informal “Don Juan” eating competition line the wall beside the cash register; the record currently stands at seven tacos.

Due to his own experience of being underpaid and underappreciated as a teacher, Juan makes a point to make sure that each member of his staff is well-paid and respected. As a result his staff has remained fairly consistent despite the normal high turnover rates common in the restaurant industry.

“One of our cooks has been with us for 20 years and another has been with us for 18.” The Mezas’ son, Juanito, has become a part of the family business as a store manager. Their daughter plans on getting in on the family business as well, but Juan and Myrna insist that she get a college education first.

Juan says that someday his children may expand his business. He has no desire to open more locations himself. He would never want to lose the personal relationships he shares with his customers.
“This is exactly where I want to be,” he says.

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